FudgeYoungPuppyStandardPoodle

The main challenge with Fudge right now is that he is very active and does not like to settle on his own (at least for a decent period of time).  So he needs to be supervised in his pen, or be trained, or in a Sit on the Dog or Place when out and about. I usually allow for free indoor time after he has gone out for 30-45 minutes.   I feel safe if he is in my sight (so not out of the room).  I use the command "let's go" to get him back if he leaves the room, OR if I think he needs to go out then I follow him downstairs to let him out. This is going to change as he grows.     Right now, since 8/15, his poop has decreased a lot, but this may not be true as he grows and his body changes.  The number of times to go out will probably be decreased by 2 or 3 during his nap times.  Right now, he is not going on all of the time, but it's new, so I have not gotten rid of any.  Also, not every pee and poop is going to come when you expect it to, but...

 Housetraining:   From July 27th on to August 7th, we had no accidents at all.  The schedule remained consistent. On approximately August 7th, Fudge's metabolism underwent a significant change, and he would pee about 3 to 5 times each time we let him out.   On about August 10-12, we had a poop accident three days in a row (while on free time inside with supervision).  Two of those times I caught him mid poop.   All those times were after he took the expected amount of poops per the schedule.  So I increased the times out again to get him out.  So a lot of time was spent on the housetraining from August 7th forward in just adhering to the schedule and getting him out.   Plus we watch him so we know what he does and if we can expect to be safe for a while. Since then, we have had no accidents, but he has been strictly supervised inside.   On August 16th, his poop schedule is off, as he is producing significantly fe...

EXERCISE 1 LURED SIT (REALLY FOOD REWARDED SIT NOW): STEP 1:    Have the food reward ready in your hand. STEP 2:    While standing straight up (but when your puppy is close) give the "sit" command.  (you can, if the puppy is having trouble give the bent arm signal for sit) STEP 3A:   If your puppy does sit (bum on the floor and two front feet on the floor), quickly bend down and give the food reward as saying "break" or "good boy/girl" (but remember the puppy should not release for "good" only for "break") STEP 3B:    If your puppy does not sit, walk in a little toward your puppy and lure them from as far away as you can. STEP 4:   Repeat If you are doing this individually, practice for 5 minutes  OR until you reach the goal of 3 sets of 4 in a row.  The time practiced will be for whichever is shortest.   If you are doing this in a group, you do not need to count how many times in a row he performs it correc...

 Notes:    Housebreaking:   As you know, Fudge has been going through a growth spurt.  So he is at the same amount of times he needs to go out during the day.   This will probably continue until 6 months old.  The schedule has been working well with only a couple of accidents.   One because he had to go at a non scheduled time.  One because I thought he would be okay after 20 minutes of training starting the long place.   Spoiler alert, he wasn't.  So the new rule is out right after 15-20 minutes of training. Still on the same protocols as week 1.   His bladder is not mature enough yet to go onto the second phase (having him loose and running towards the door at each alarm that I have on my phone). Obedience Training and Chill Exercise Training:    Now all those exercises are advancing and working towards goals in inside distractions and while standing.   Some outside distraction work has...

 NOTES:   On housebreaking, Fudge is doing well in his age group.  However the protocols for the first week involve having him tethered to me, in his pen, or strictly supervised with dragging leash ONLY when he has done his business and for about 20 minutes tops.  Also outside in the penned in area he can run freely with leash dragging or not.  We have been able to work with a loose house training schedule. On training, he is doing well.  About over hour is made up of house training (watching to make sure he goes, adhering to the schedule).  Then his training and chill behavior exercises take up the rest of the time. Fudge is smart and learns well.  The down side is, Fudge is smart and can be relentless when he wants something.   So the behavioral chill exercises are very important (right now sit on the dog and long place). Fudge does well with both play training and food training.  He isn't a dog that will do something JUST to...

   Equipment Needed:   (optional unless outside, then long line needed or ecollar) 6' leash inside for dragging, training collar on dog (even though you won't really be using it, it could be a flat collar too), Flirt Pole. NOTE:  ANY TOYS USED IN PLAY TRAINING ARE ALWAYS JUST USED FOR PLAY TRAINING.  YOUR DOG CAN HAVE OTHER TOYS, BUT THIS TOY ONLY COMES OUT FOR PLAY TRAINING SESSIONS. If you want to know more about play training, check out this series on my business blog,  play training series .  This is more of a series in why it is valuable and things to avoid. STEP 1:   Typically, if your dog knows it, put your dog in a sit while you get the flirt pole. STEP 2:   When you are ready, use your release word "yes" and wiggle the toy at the end of the bungee on the pole like prey.   If your dog or puppy are not the most graceful, remember you want them to get the lure.   The object is NOT to keep the lure from them...